About the Area
Before deseribing the sight-seeing and
trekking possibilities that are in store for you,it is essential to give
you a brief introduction to the region and a rudimentary description of
the tarrain. Needless to say, this will not be comprehensive and the
best way to get know this region is to come along and see itf or
yourselves.
The region is bordered by the Sun Kosi River on the west and the Khimti Khola River on the eastem edge. It is divided unequally by the River Tama Kosi, proportionately two thirds to the west of the river and one third to the east.
To the north east lies the impressive Rolwaling Himal to the western edge of which are such peaks as Gauri Shanker and Melungtse. Gauri Shanker is synonymous with the god Shiva and his consort Parvati.
It is thus named because the Nepalese
believe that the closeness of its two mounds are like the closeness of
husband and wife. Since Shiva is the god who inhabits the Himalayas the
mountain people have a special affiliation for him.
To the north-west the mountains slope gently downwards towards the ancient pass of Kuti that starts above the Tibetan town of Khasa and follows the waters of the Bhote Kosi from Tibet. The river flows past Kodari and Tatopani (Hot Springs) on the Nepalese side and gradually rushes down into an ever- widening stream of water that becomes the Sun Kosi. The Khimti Khola drains down from a region of five lakes called Panch Pokhari.They
have a specifc placein legend and go by the names of Mohi (buttermilk),
Jata (hair), Dudh (milk), Bahula (insane) and Bhut (ghost). People
believe that if one bathes in Bahula Pokhari one will become insane,
whereas the Ghost Lake cannot bear the smell of human perspiration and
will pull one inside its murky waters to a certain death if you as much
as venture near it. The Khimti Khola joins the Tama Kosi, as do the
Khare Khola and Rolwaling Khola to the north-east and the Sangawati,
Dolti and Charnewati Kholas to the west.
It is a beautiful region in which the
riverine valleys open out into massive volcanic folds. Sub-tropical
settlements on the banks of rivers boast banana trees, guava and an
abundance of fish. Above the banks hover the terraced fields of paddy,
make, wheat and millet.
Between Charikot and Jiri
the road descends to 845 metres and to our surprise is bordered by
plantations of sugar-cane. Above these slopes are forests of dark oak,
fir and pine, interspersed with tangles of bracken and fem all in the
embrace of clinging orchids and coloured in the springtime by the
rhododendrons, the national flower of our mountain land.
Mosses cling to the shaded rocks and in
the forests are wild strawberries, loganberries, red berries and thyrne.
The shy Nepal Babbler chitters away ‘Wich, Wich, Wich’ in the damp,
dark woods below the hir of the mountain eagle whilst in the early
autumn foaming white waterfalls rush over the river moulded rocks.
Some of these lichen and moss-covered
banks hide crevices in which lurk black krates, orange and black
patterned rock snakes and the dull green grass snake. Higher up and even
higher are the slate-grey cliffs where the yellow flowered gorse clings
to the hst breath of life between the hostile rocks. Higher still lies
the Himalaya an abode of snow against a sky sometimes of azure,
sometimes turquoise or even clouded, brooding and forbidding all
intervention from below.
Against the winds of this world the
prayer flags dance in a plea for communion with the divine which only
can offer solace in the immensity that is time on the face of the
highest mountains on earth.
About the Dolakhatown
One can walk from Charikot to
Dolakha in 45 minutes, so not by any stretch of imagination could it be
cald a trek. What is more, sometimes in 1984 a branch road from the main
highway will go to Dolakha itself . However, despite the fact that it
is so easy to get to Dolakha it should not be lightly dismissed.
No one knows for sure when this
magnisficent albeit crumbling hilltown was built. The historic annals of
Nepal list it as an independent Kingdom at the time of the Malla
dynasties during the 15th and 16th centuries. Its historical links
withTibet suggest that this ancient town dates bacic to the 7th century.
Predominantly Newari,it was
an entrepot between Tibet, Northern India and the Valley of Kathmandu.
Residents of Bhadgaon often in the past kept surnmer homes in Dolakha.
Originaliy believed to be by the side of the river itelf, it w as
relocated above the Tama Kosi. The river obviously played an
important part in their ilves and legends because the people of Dolakha
follow the South-East Asian practise of lighting incense andand sending
leaf-boats of offerings onto the river Tama Kosi. The steep incline that
today leads to the river would suggest that the town moved in order to
facilitate defence. Remains of fortress walls prove that it was indeed a
fortified town.
Old Dolakha
It abounds with ancient monuments,
drama platforms and legends. Although predominantly, Newari, the Thamis
have a place in the legends of this town playing key roles in major
religious festivals.
In the past, it is believed, the
women of Dolakha were highly educated and played important roles in
government. Sacred and beloved also of the Gorkhali King it is said that
when the statue of Bhimsen in Dolakha perspires the House of Gorkha
will soffer unless propitiation is sent.
The perspiration of the God is wiped
with cotton wool and sent to the Royal Palace at Kathmandu. Upon
receiving this, five different sets of propitiatory items are sent to
the Bhimsen Temple in Dolkha.
In the past fabled for its wealth, it is
now a town that is needed for restauration. Fascinating still, Dolakha
can provide those interested In the past with many absorbing hours of
sight-seeing.
The speech of Dolakha is unlike any
other Newari dialect and the people themselves believe that language is
the court language of the Pandava princes. The Pandaves were five Royal
Brothers who fought (with the help of Lord Krishna) to regain their
righfful Kingdorn in the battle of the Mahabharat. The princes are
believed by the Dolakha dwellers to have hidden in a cave near Dolakha
before the battle. Hence the claim that the Dolakha dialect has come
down from the Pandavas.
It is indeed true that there are many
references to caves or ‘gufa’ in the Dolakha district, although
geologists and hydrologists alike claim that limestone, a prerequisite
for cave formation, is missing in this area.
In ancient times when Nepal had a
profitable trade relationship with Tibet, this was the route that
merchants used. It was then that this town rose to prosperity. There are
still some houses belonging to those times. According to some locals,
the town has more or less faithfully maintained its past appearance.
Apparently, as soon as trade and commerce dried up, Dolakha ceased to
age. Despite the time-ravaged houses, the town is young, and so are its
sons who constitute one of the most reliable work forces for odd jobs in
the capital.
When Laxman was injured and the great ape-god Hanuman was asked
to bring a certain medicinal herb for the rescue, the mighty ape-god
hovered on the sky above Dolakha, say the locals. Probably the beauty of
the region dulled his sense of judgement and he ended up taking a chunk
of a hill near the Gaurishanker mountain. “You can still see a chunk
missing there,” says Rakesh Shrestha of Ccho-Rolpa Tours and Tavels. And
even though you cannot clearly make out the pointed spot due to the
distance, you will be surprised to find that your mind has all of a
sudden acquired extra creativity. In a flash of a second, you have
conjured up the image of the ape-god performing that wondrous feat.
That is not all. The Bhimeswor temple
is not a new name to the god-fearing throughout the nation. People pour
in every week from the capital and from various other districts to
offer prayers to the God. During their visit, they donнt forget to ask
one famous question, “Is the God sweating?” For they all have heard that
if Bhimeswor sweats, that means something big is to happen. And that
may be good or bad. Legend has it that the despairing Lord Shiva traveled though this area, carrying the corpse of His beloved Sati Devi.
The corpse of the goddess had decayed so badly that a piece of her
flesh detached and fell down the gorges immediately north of Dolakha.
Thus sprang up the temple of Tripura Sundari. Talk to the priest
and he will confide that a certain golden icon was stolen from this
beautiful temple years ago. Hence, the misfortune that has befallen the
country ever since.
Though decrepit with lack of maintenance, the Manjushree Park.
will spring up to life as soon as you step in. It will start whispering
love-poetry through the branches of its old and wise trees. If you have
an inclination to pen down verses, you might even end up writing some
poems. But be careful, the ground is slippery. The dry grass will try
its best to upset your balance. But then, it is a harmless mischief.
Even if you slip and fall down six times or even a dozen times as I did,
donнt curse the area. For there are forest-gods hovering around, and
you might end-up infuriating them.
Quite naturally, as Dolakha has been at
peace since a long time. And the logic of conflict is something that
they cannot understand, unless as some form of madness, spiritual
illness, or moral pestilence.
