Dolakha Features

About the Area

Before deseribing the sight-seeing and trekking possibilities that are in store for you,it is essential to give you a brief introduction to the region and a rudimentary description of the tarrain. Needless to say, this will not be comprehensive and the best way to get know this region is to come along and see itf or yourselves.

  The region is bordered by the Sun Kosi River on the west and the Khimti Khola River on the eastem edge. It is divided unequally by the River Tama Kosi, proportionately two thirds to the west of the river and one third to the east.

To the north east lies the impressive Rolwaling Himal to the western edge of which are such peaks as Gauri Shanker and Melungtse. Gauri Shanker is synonymous with the god Shiva and his consort Parvati. 

  It is thus named because the Nepalese believe that the closeness of its two mounds are like the closeness of husband and wife. Since Shiva is the god who inhabits the Himalayas the mountain people have a special affiliation for him.

To the north-west the mountains slope gently downwards towards the ancient pass of Kuti that starts above the Tibetan town of Khasa and follows the waters of the Bhote Kosi from Tibet. The river flows past Kodari and Tatopani (Hot Springs) on the Nepalese side and gradually rushes down into an ever- widening stream of water that becomes the Sun Kosi. The Khimti Khola drains down from a region of five lakes called Panch Pokhari.They have a specifc placein legend and go by the names of Mohi (buttermilk), Jata (hair), Dudh (milk), Bahula (insane) and Bhut (ghost). People believe that if one bathes in Bahula Pokhari one will become insane, whereas the Ghost Lake cannot bear the smell of human perspiration and will pull one inside its murky waters to a certain death if you as much as venture near it. The Khimti Khola joins the Tama Kosi, as do the Khare Khola and Rolwaling Khola to the north-east and the Sangawati, Dolti and Charnewati Kholas to the west.

It is a beautiful region in which the riverine valleys open out into massive volcanic folds. Sub-tropical settlements on the banks of rivers boast banana trees, guava and an abundance of fish. Above the banks hover the terraced fields of paddy, make, wheat and millet.

Between Charikot and Jiri the road descends to 845 metres and to our surprise is bordered by plantations of sugar-cane. Above these slopes are forests of dark oak, fir and pine, interspersed with tangles of bracken and fem all in the embrace of clinging orchids and coloured in the springtime by the rhododendrons, the national flower of our mountain land.

Mosses cling to the shaded rocks and in the forests are wild strawberries, loganberries, red berries and thyrne. The shy Nepal Babbler chitters away ‘Wich, Wich, Wich’ in the damp, dark woods below the hir of the mountain eagle whilst in the early autumn foaming white waterfalls rush over the river moulded rocks.

Some of these lichen and moss-covered banks hide crevices in which lurk black krates, orange and black patterned rock snakes and the dull green grass snake. Higher up and even higher are the slate-grey cliffs where the yellow flowered gorse clings to the hst breath of life between the hostile rocks. Higher still lies the Himalaya an abode of snow against a sky sometimes of azure, sometimes turquoise or even clouded, brooding and forbidding all intervention from below.

Against the winds of this world the prayer flags dance in a plea for communion with the divine which only can offer solace in the immensity that is time on the face of the highest mountains on earth.

About the Dolakhatown

 

One can walk from Charikot to Dolakha in 45 minutes, so not by any stretch of imagination could it be cald a trek. What is more, sometimes in 1984 a branch road from the main highway will go to Dolakha itself . However, despite the fact that it is so easy to get to Dolakha it should not be lightly dismissed.

 

No one knows for sure when this magnisficent albeit crumbling hilltown was built. The historic annals of Nepal list it as an independent Kingdom at the time of the Malla dynasties during  the 15th and 16th centuries. Its historical links withTibet suggest that this ancient town dates bacic to the 7th century.

Predominantly Newari,it was an entrepot between Tibet, Northern India and the Valley of Kathmandu. Residents of Bhadgaon often in the past kept surnmer homes in Dolakha. Originaliy believed to be by the side of the river itelf, it w as relocated above the Tama Kosi. The river obviously played an important part in their ilves and legends because the people of Dolakha follow the South-East Asian practise of lighting incense andand sending leaf-boats of offerings onto the river Tama Kosi. The steep incline that today leads to the river would suggest that the town moved in order to facilitate defence. Remains of fortress walls prove that it was indeed a fortified town.

Old Dolakha

It abounds with ancient monuments, drama platforms and legends. Although predominantly, Newari, the Thamis have a place in the legends of this town playing key roles in major religious festivals. 

In the past, it is believed, the women of Dolakha were highly educated and played important roles in government. Sacred and beloved also of the Gorkhali King it is said that when the statue of Bhimsen in Dolakha perspires the House of Gorkha will soffer unless propitiation is sent. 

The perspiration of the God is wiped with cotton wool and sent to the Royal Palace at Kathmandu. Upon receiving this, five different sets of propitiatory items are sent to the Bhimsen Temple in Dolkha.

In the past fabled for its wealth, it is now a town that is needed for restauration. Fascinating still, Dolakha can provide those interested In the past with many absorbing hours of sight-seeing.

The speech of Dolakha is unlike any other Newari dialect and the people themselves believe that language is the court language of the Pandava princes. The Pandaves were five Royal Brothers who fought (with the help of Lord Krishna) to regain their righfful Kingdorn in the battle of the Mahabharat. The princes are believed by the Dolakha dwellers to have hidden in a cave near Dolakha before the battle. Hence the claim that the Dolakha dialect has come down from the Pandavas.

It is indeed true that there are many references to caves or ‘gufa’ in the Dolakha district, although geologists and hydrologists alike claim that limestone, a prerequisite for cave formation, is missing in this area.

In ancient times when Nepal had a profitable trade relationship with Tibet, this was the route that merchants used. It was then that this town rose to prosperity. There are still some houses belonging to those times. According to some locals, the town has more or less faithfully maintained its past appearance. Apparently, as soon as trade and commerce dried up, Dolakha ceased to age. Despite the time-ravaged houses, the town is young, and so are its sons who constitute one of the most reliable work forces for odd jobs in the capital.
When Laxman was injured and the great ape-god Hanuman was asked to bring a certain medicinal herb for the rescue, the mighty ape-god hovered on the sky above Dolakha, say the locals. Probably the beauty of the region dulled his sense of judgement and he ended up taking a chunk of a hill near the Gaurishanker mountain. “You can still see a chunk missing there,” says Rakesh Shrestha of Ccho-Rolpa Tours and Tavels. And even though you cannot clearly make out the pointed spot due to the distance, you will be surprised to find that your mind has all of a sudden acquired extra creativity. In a flash of a second, you have conjured up the image of the ape-god performing that wondrous feat.

That is not all. The Bhimeswor temple is not a new name to the god-fearing throughout the nation. People pour in every week from the capital and from various other districts to offer prayers to the God. During their visit, they donнt forget to ask one famous question, “Is the God sweating?” For they all have heard that if Bhimeswor sweats, that means something big is to happen. And that may be good or bad. Legend has it that the despairing Lord Shiva traveled though this area, carrying the corpse of His beloved Sati Devi. The corpse of the goddess had decayed so badly that a piece of her flesh detached and fell down the gorges immediately north of Dolakha. Thus sprang up the temple of Tripura Sundari. Talk to the priest and he will confide that a certain golden icon was stolen from this beautiful temple years ago. Hence, the misfortune that has befallen the country ever since.

Though decrepit with lack of maintenance, the Manjushree Park. will spring up to life as soon as you step in. It will start whispering love-poetry through the branches of its old and wise trees. If you have an inclination to pen down verses, you might even end up writing some poems. But be careful, the ground is slippery. The dry grass will try its best to upset your balance. But then, it is a harmless mischief. Even if you slip and fall down six times or even a dozen times as I did, donнt curse the area. For there are forest-gods hovering around, and you might end-up infuriating them.

Quite naturally, as Dolakha has been at peace since a long time. And the logic of conflict is something that they cannot understand, unless as some form of madness, spiritual illness, or moral pestilence.